Baksheesh overload
I am SO happy to be back in Jordan and to get out of Egypt. It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience to see the pyramids and sphinx and all that, but I am so over Egypt.
Since last time I posted, I realized that I must have a St. Christopher's Medallion branded on my aura - my traveling is always blessed. Because if the worst that happens to me is that I have to eat at McDonald's, I'll be ok. After I posted, I went for a walk in Cairo downtown, and everybody was too happy to tell me (unsolicited) which way was downtown and museum. I KNOW where those things are and I was deliberately going the other direction - but it made me realize how bad tourists have ruined things there. People not interested in knowing Egypt or Egyptians, but just some piles of rocks.
Anyway, one of the folks was the botanical director for the museum, and he was fun to chat with. Then I took up the challenge of a lifetime: to ride home during rush hour the first day of Ramadan on the subway and buses. Let's just say that I got closer to Egyptians than I ever really wanted to. the subway was actually great - clean and efficient and well-labeled, and a women's car at the front (I was the only foreigner). Then I actually rode public buses - some guy helped me out with the first one, then I attached myself to a young woman who helped me with the second, and the whole bus helped me with the third.
I'm glad I did it - just to prove that not all foreigners are idiots and removed from Egypt. But it was exhausting.
the next day I went to Sakkara and Memphis, which was pretty cool - to see THE oldest pyramid in the world, where the Pharoahs used to live, cool tombs, etc. But the creepy baksheeshing really maxed out. Everybody wanting money for doing their job - the taxi driver had to give it to the tourist cops, and guards who opened doors for me to tombs expected it and then actually complained when I gave too little in their minds. It was upsetting, and I had to say about 30 times to pushy "guides" - "I just want to be alone." I walked out in to the desert a bit to have a better perspective, and they actually followed me on camels and donkeys, insisting I couldn't walk back alone? ARGH.
The next day I had planned to go into town again, but I was so burnt out and met new friends at breakfast (from Holland) who insisted I spend the day recharging with them poolside. I felt ridiculous - here I am in EGYPT and I'm sitting at a hotel?? But it was good because I've got painful stomach and low energy because I can't sleep through the night because it hurts so bad at times. I'll be ok - this is something I had before in the US and the doctor couldn't figure it out at all, but it passes eventually. I'm just so excited to be back in Jordan and "civilization."
OH, I was going to go to make reservations to go places in my few days here ... but it may be too late now. Oh well. Tomorrow. I want to go to Petra and the Dead Sea, but honestly I'm so maxed out on tourism now that I'd be happier kicking back with Mahmoud and doing absolutely nothing. So, I'll call him. He's like 2-3 hours away, but we'll definitely hook up because he has a bag of my stuff.
It's almost dark I think, so maybe I'll be able to go find a falafel stand. Damn Ramadan. How are the infidels supposed to eat when everything is closed every day??
Since last time I posted, I realized that I must have a St. Christopher's Medallion branded on my aura - my traveling is always blessed. Because if the worst that happens to me is that I have to eat at McDonald's, I'll be ok. After I posted, I went for a walk in Cairo downtown, and everybody was too happy to tell me (unsolicited) which way was downtown and museum. I KNOW where those things are and I was deliberately going the other direction - but it made me realize how bad tourists have ruined things there. People not interested in knowing Egypt or Egyptians, but just some piles of rocks.
Anyway, one of the folks was the botanical director for the museum, and he was fun to chat with. Then I took up the challenge of a lifetime: to ride home during rush hour the first day of Ramadan on the subway and buses. Let's just say that I got closer to Egyptians than I ever really wanted to. the subway was actually great - clean and efficient and well-labeled, and a women's car at the front (I was the only foreigner). Then I actually rode public buses - some guy helped me out with the first one, then I attached myself to a young woman who helped me with the second, and the whole bus helped me with the third.
I'm glad I did it - just to prove that not all foreigners are idiots and removed from Egypt. But it was exhausting.
the next day I went to Sakkara and Memphis, which was pretty cool - to see THE oldest pyramid in the world, where the Pharoahs used to live, cool tombs, etc. But the creepy baksheeshing really maxed out. Everybody wanting money for doing their job - the taxi driver had to give it to the tourist cops, and guards who opened doors for me to tombs expected it and then actually complained when I gave too little in their minds. It was upsetting, and I had to say about 30 times to pushy "guides" - "I just want to be alone." I walked out in to the desert a bit to have a better perspective, and they actually followed me on camels and donkeys, insisting I couldn't walk back alone? ARGH.
The next day I had planned to go into town again, but I was so burnt out and met new friends at breakfast (from Holland) who insisted I spend the day recharging with them poolside. I felt ridiculous - here I am in EGYPT and I'm sitting at a hotel?? But it was good because I've got painful stomach and low energy because I can't sleep through the night because it hurts so bad at times. I'll be ok - this is something I had before in the US and the doctor couldn't figure it out at all, but it passes eventually. I'm just so excited to be back in Jordan and "civilization."
OH, I was going to go to make reservations to go places in my few days here ... but it may be too late now. Oh well. Tomorrow. I want to go to Petra and the Dead Sea, but honestly I'm so maxed out on tourism now that I'd be happier kicking back with Mahmoud and doing absolutely nothing. So, I'll call him. He's like 2-3 hours away, but we'll definitely hook up because he has a bag of my stuff.
It's almost dark I think, so maybe I'll be able to go find a falafel stand. Damn Ramadan. How are the infidels supposed to eat when everything is closed every day??
posted by NOLA at 7:42 AM
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